my life

I was up at 6am this morning… not on purpose mind, just woke up with a start – even though I’d forced myself to stay up until 2am to stave off jet lag. Seems jet lag will always win in the end.

Making an offering to the Buddha at the temple, moments before wafting the smoke into my face and saying a prayer

I did a bad thing too: whilst out last night I noticed there was a Denny’s about 15 minutes’ walk away and decided to go there for some grease. I know, I know, I should be trying to local cuisine but I haven’t had a Denny’s since my days of living in Colorado and turning into a fat man… I was going to give in and go once while I’m here so I might as well just make that time now. The breakfast was a bit disappointing. A tiny, thin greasy sausage and some scrambled egg, then a bit of lettuce with some mary rose sauce on it. The waitress more than made up for it though; she was so happy to be serving me I swear she actually wet herself. I can honestly say that I have never been bowed to and thanked so much by a complete stranger – and she wasn’t doing it for tips either, as nobody tips in Japan.

I had an epiphany right there and then in Denny’s whilst looking at a small fly on the window. I won’t go into it now, but I must remember that it was Denny’s in Tokyo where and when I realised the true nature of our existence

I went for a walk as it’s a nice sunny day again today, passing all sorts of shops selling everything you could ever think of that you would never, ever need. Tokyo is full of places like that. One shop sold tiny tiny puppies in bright pink cages; I felt so sorry for them yelping away and ripping up their little blankets. I hope someone buys them soon; better still I hope nobody buys them and trade for this cruelty dries up.

I went to visit a Buddhist temple today. It was very busy and this was the first time I saw a few Western-looking folk (apart from a couple in my hotel). It was quite funny to look down a packed street and see the odd blonde-haired person towering above the rest. I’d like to say I was one of them, but I blend in quite well with the locals!

Burning josticks - I don't know what it was about them which made me think of the Third Reich

Whilst at the temple I lit a bunch of incense sticks and said a few prayers whilst bathing in the smoke. Everyone else was doing it, so I copied them. It was lovely and peaceful even though there were lots of people there. In fact, from what I’ve seen of Tokyo so far, the whole place has the feel of a minute’s silence at a football game; shit loads of people and not much noise at all.

I did another bad thing today: I went to McDonalds. Yep, two American fast food joints in a day. I’m writing this, and I genuinely feel like crap. The saying, you are what you eat is so true it’s not funny. They had an advert for a Japanese cheesy thing and my will power is quite frankly shocking. This wasn’t an ordinary McDonalds though – this was McDonals, Japanese style! Toilets with buttons which spray your bum, classical music playing in the background; not to drown out the noise of screaming kids, but instead to give us all a break from the silence.

I really hope that my visit to the Buddhist temple counter balances the Denny’s and the McDonalds!

When I was flying into Japan, the first thing I noticed was that it was sunny. Having checked the weather the other day I was glad, as the BBC had predicted rain, and having been in winter for what seems like forever I am happy for any amount of sun I can get. I also noticed the formation of the landscape; it was either dead flat or what can only be described as ‘wrinkled’ like the face of an aging pug.

As we were approaching the city of Tokyo, the captain announced that if we looked to our right we could see glorious Mount Fuji in the sun. I was on the left. Never mind, I might get the change to go there. I’d like that. What I could see from my window was plenty of roofs painted blue, and if you squinted (or your eyes weren’t the best) then they looked like everyone had or lived in thousands of swimming pools. What I also noticed is that they drive on the left like us. I didn’t know this but was relieved. Not that I’ll be doing any driving here, but it’s always nice to look the right way when crossing the road. I’ve been caught out a few times in the States!

Believe it or not, this is actually just a launderette - one with a few special offers it seems

After the sad film (which was good, I’d recommend seeing it) and some sporadic sleep, got out my Guide to Tokyo book which was kindly given to me by Broady’s Mum – Thanks Julie! One of the things I read was that Tokyo (and indeed Japan) has one of the lowest crime rates in the world; practically zero. And that there’s one rule for tipping: they don’t and you shouldn’t either. Ace!

When I got to my hotel (which is tiny!) I decided to have an hour’s kip. This turned into 6 hours kip, but i didn’t want to get into that jet-lagged routine so decided to get a shower and go out to explore. A few things I noticed about Tokyo: it is so clean here, the people are so friendly and I feel so safe walking down the street. There’s no feeling of unease you sometimes get in foreign capital cities (and indeed our own), it just feels to safe. Bikes are left unlocked, expensive looking plant pots with amazing plants line the streets and if you look at anyone they generally smile at you. It’s very nice.

I went to a bar which proudly proclaimed “Of course we have Guinness so let’s enjoy with us!” and had some plum-based Japanese wine (when in Rome). Sweet but tasty. I’m now back at the hotel (after getting lost for an hour) and I think it’s about time for bed. Hopefully I will wake up at a reasonable hour and that’ll be the end of the jet lag; before it’s even begun.

I’m writing this on the plane; taking a little break from watching the Curious Case of Benjamin Button. It’s a good film, what I’ve seen of it so far. I feel like an emotional wreck right now. Right at the beginning of the film there is an old lady dying from what appears to be cancer. Her daughter is sat on the bed reading her diary. After saying goodbye to so many people in such a short space of time I started fighting back the tears when that bit was on. Actually just writing this is making me feel emotional. It’s not so much the film itself, although that part is particularly sad. It’s the fact that I have just spent most of my time lately saying goodbye to the people I love the most.

It might have something to do with the 3 double whisky and ‘Virgin’ colas I’ve just had, but the world seems to have shifted on its axis ever so slightly for me; and I’m sat here wondering what I’m about to do and why. I was so adamant about leaving the UK for the last few years, I just got it into my head that I just had to go. But saying goodbye to so many amazing people has got me thinking how lucky I really am. I have an amazing family and some fantastic friends, and having spent some time with a lot of them during the past weeks and months has got me wondering why I’m moving to a place where I know nobody. I could cry at anything right now – pathetic huh!

Japan (where I’m going to be for a week) is 8 hours ahead of us and it’s 2am there now so I best finish off watching this film so I don’t feel too jet-lagged whilst I’m over there. I’m going to press that call bell one more time though; I still can’t get over the novelty of getting whisky and Virgin colas delivered to me by beautiful Japanese ladies. For free.